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I got the train to Pamplona, first-class. You get free wine, newspapers, nibbles and a full meal. This was all I got. Some pillock in a van drove over a level crossing farther up the line, and we had to wait around for ages for coaches to take us round the problem. Eventually the coaches took us all the way to Pamplona, and we didn't arrive until about one in the morning. No chance of finding a cheap place to stay, so Grizelda (a Californian I met on the train/coach journey) and I booked into the first hotel we found.